"But sometimes desire is not to be conjured away, but appears as here, at the centre of the stage, all too visibly, on the festive board, in the form of a salmon. It is an attractive-looking fish, and if it is presented, as is the custom in restaurants, under a thin gauze, the raising of this gauze creates a similar effect to that which occured at the culmination of the ancient mysteries.
To be the phallus, if only a somewhat thin one. Was not that the ultimate identification with the signifier of desire?"
From Jacques Lacan's "Direction of treatment and principles of its power" in Écrits: A Selection
(Tran. Alan Sheridan, 1977), 262.